Ask a finisher: Do I need extra rows on my ornament?

One tricky aspect of stitching is knowing if you need extra rows.

FYI: Extra rows refers to any area outside of the painted design.

They are not always necessary depending on the design but are sometimes helpful.

Clear as mud, right?

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The basics

When you don’t need extra rows

• Simple shapes (rounds, squares, ovals)

• Special shapes that are thicker than the tip of your pinky

• 3D shapes - Do not add extra rows to preserve the geometry of the finish

When you absolutely need extra rows

• Areas skinnier than the tip of your pinky

• White areas in between two painted areas

When you *might want* extra rows

• The design has painted details that should be visible to be defined

• You applied embellishments like beads near the edge

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Why extra rows matter

When you finish a project using an ornament or flat finish, the edge of your stitching should just kiss the table. This means you cannot any exposed canvas. This also means that your stitching wraps slightly around the batting and mat board. So when you apply the cording, some of the very edge of your stitching might be hard to see.

If you want the edge of your design to be visible, add an extra row or two.

In this example canvas below, you ordinarily do NOT need extra rows. However, if you bead the white star design, or want to see the outermost design, I recommend a few extra rows. Alternatively, leave beads off the edge. It depends!

Canvas: “Benjamin Bear” by Thorn Alexander, Distributed by KCN Designers

Another reason you may need extra rows is for structural integrity. In the example below, the panhandle area of the design is very narrow. When I finished this project for a client, I added additional reinforcement inside, but without adding too much bulk, it’s best to follow the rule of thumb: pinky width or less, add extra rows.

Madras Florida via SG Designs

The last reason you may need extra rows is to ensure no white canvas is exposed. If there’s white design areas in between painted stitches or inaccessible by the finisher, these are best stitched.

You can see this in the photo highlight in Florida bays above or between the stork legs in the example below.

Additionally, you’d need extra rows on either side of the stork neck, the bag, the wing tips, etc. This canvas is designed to have a background as the detailed stitch guide outlines.

Stork Needlepoint Canvas by Stitch Style, available at Stitch-Style.com and at LNS nationwide

Another common design that I see among stitchers (and one of my favorites myself), is the classic monogram wreath by SCT Designs pictured below. Here you can see that the leaves do not have painted background between them. Additionally, the finisher cannot get the points of the leaves super sharp during finishing. Finally, there’s not a way to access the small area within the bow. All of this needs to be stitched.

Monogram Wreath by SCT Designs, Distributed by KCN Designers and available at LNS nationwide

As mentioned above, do not stitch extra rows on 3D designs. I’m stitching three 3D canvases and will share process videos. I am not stitching extra rows on them as they will not have cording. Stitching extra rows would affect the geometry of the finish.

3D Firetruck by The Studio, Available at LNS nationwide

I also put together a quick video of this on YouTube if you are interested. You’ll see a few additional examples from my stash.

As you progress in your stitching, you’ll start stitching with the end in mind. It will come naturally. If you’re sending in a project for finishing and you’re unsure, please send me a picture so I can help.

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Canvas Sources and Photo Credits:

• Benjamin Bear, Photo Credit Needlepoint.com

• Stork and Military Jacket, Photo Credit Stitch-Style

• Florida, Photo Credit SG Designs

• Wreath, Photo Credit KC Needlepoint

• 3D Firetruck, Photo Credit Magic City Needlepoint

• Patriotic House, Video Only, Audrey Wu