How to: Finish Special Shaped Ornaments
Special shapes because you’re special!
You got round ornaments down pat, now it’s time to put your skills to the test with special shapes. Don’t fret, the steps are very similar, you’ll just want to focus on matboard fit to make sure you end up with nice smooth edges.
And hey, has anyone told you today that you are special?
Below, you’ll find the detailed process tutorial video, comprehensive list of materials and supplies, and written instructions. This is the format that I use for all paid tutorials, so if you’re interested in more, I hope you consider joining if you haven’t already.
Finishing an Irregularly Shaped Ornament
Difficulty: 2/5 🪡🪡
Prerequisites
Prep Work
Before you begin the finishing steps, complete the following prep work:
Block your canvas so it lies flat and even. You can find my article on blocking here.
Make a photocopy of your stitched canvas to use as a template for cutting the shape.
Gather your materials (see full list below).
Materials
Needlepoint, finished and blocked
Scrap paper and pencil
Cording: I used 9 strands of DMC floss, created with the Lacis cording maker
Fabric lined with a fusible mid-weight fusible interfacing. Some fabric recommendations here. I used a printed cotton.
Pins
Scissors
Iron
For lacing: DMC pearle cotton for lacing
For attaching the cording: Invisible Thread or Fishing Line
A tapestry needle for lacing your canvas
A sharp, thin needle for attaching your cording
Sewing clips aka Wonderclips
You can find a full list of recommended finishing materials here.
Detailed Process Video
Step 1: Block Your Needlepoint
For tips on blocking, check out this post.
Step 2: Create Your Template
Using a window, lightbox or other tracing method, trace a copy of your needlepoint canvas. You’ll use this to cut out your matboard and batting. You can also scan it into your Cricut or use a photocopier.
Cut around the traced design roughly 1/8 inch smaller on all sides. TIP: this is approximately 2 canvas intersections smaller on each side.
Step 3: Cut your Matboard and Batting
Using your template, trace two shapes onto your matboard
Cut slightly within the pencil line (this will be the front).
Cut another slightly outside the pencil line (this will be the back)
Using a pencil or pen, mark the mat board to indicate “Front face out” and “Back face out.” This is especially important for special shapes. When you put them together, they should line up so that the each outward-facing side is, in fact, outward facing.
Line up your front matboard on two layers of batting
Cut around the perimeter and trim so the batting is slightly smaller than the matboard (1/16 inch or so)
Step 4: Cut Your Canvas
Cut out your canvas from the waste canvas, leaving approximately 3/4 of an inch all the way around the project. For 13 mesh projects, leave the allowance longer, approximately 1 inch all the way around the edge of your project
Dart the canvas all the way around, STOP one canvas intersection away from the edge of your stitching. Don’t cut into the cell with a stitch.
Tip: point the tip of your scissors toward the imaginary “center” of the ornament
Tab width can be 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch wide. For 13 mesh, tabs can be on the wider side at approximately 3/4" wide
If the tabs are too wide, it can make the project look oddly shaped and show canvas along the edges.
If you need more help with templates, check out Cutting your Canvas with Confidence.
Step 5: Assemble Front
Now that you have all components, you’re ready to assemble your project. The biggest thing you should watch for on this step is canvas showing around the perimeter. If you see canvas, the cording will not cover this like you think it will. Take the time to disassemble and trim your matboard a bit.
With your needlepoint face down on a surface, layer the batting on the canvas, and top with the matboard. Ensure your “Inside Top” reminder matches the top of the needlepoint object. You should be able to see stitching all the way around.
Test fit of the tabs, ensuring the canvas wraps around the batting and matboard to “kiss” the table if lying on a surface
Add 4-6 wonder clips around the perimeter, continuing to check for fit
If it does not fit, disassemble and trim the matboard and batting where needed.
Cut a piece of floss or string to length (start with about 2-3 feet)
Make a knot in your floss and run it through the top tab. Lace it through tab at the bottom of the object. Move in a circular motion around the canvas, each time lacing across the ornament.
Your goal is taught front but you do not need to pull the tabs extremely tightly. If you find yourself doing so, the tabs could rip. Simply trim the matboard a hair more.
Once you’ve secured all your tabs, knot off and trim excess.
Step 6: Make the Cording
I have a special Lacis cording video linked here.
Cut your floss to the desired length for your finished project. For a 4 inch round, you need 9-12 strands of DMC floss cut to 30 inches
Tie one end to your jig, keeping the color bundles separate Loop them into your Lacis, being careful to match the colors in order so they don’t criss cross. Check for even lengths and tension across each of the colors. Clip off excess so it doesn’t get tangled
The floss running from your jig to your Lacis should be gently taught. Slide the button on the Lacis to position 1 to begin to twist. This first step twists each bundle on its own
When its tight but before it starts to bunch, stop twisting. The key to a really great twist is actually a tight and even first twist
Slide the button on the Lacis to 2 to twist your color bundles together The cording will begin to jump and dance when you’re about half way through. When it begins to tension again, you’re close to done. Stop before it doubles on itself or begins to bunch up. You’ll hear the Lacis begin to slow Avoid over tensioning and putting stress on your Lacis
Remove the ends from the Lacis and knot or tape Remove the ends from the jig while holding the ends you removed from your Lacis to maintain tension. Knot or tape end.
Step 6: Assemble Back
Lay your fabric print side down on the table and place your back matboard piece on top, making sure the “Back face out” side is also laying face down.
Trim within 3/4 of an inch all the way around and add additional Wonderclips around the shape.
Cut a piece of floss or string to 2-2.5 feet
Make a knot and sew it through the fabric. Run your floss across the object, moving in a circular pattern like you did with your needlepoint canvas. Your laces should be approximately 3/4 of an inch apart
Remove your Wonderclips as you go. Knot off & trim
Sink a pin into the top of your front and back pieces
Use one or two Wonderclips to secure the front and the back of your ornament together, checking your alignment. (I like to clip on the left, right, and bottom, out of the way of the top, where we’ll add cording next)
Step 8: Join the Front and the Back and Add the Cording
Begin by inserting the end of your cording at the top. Sink a pin between the two colors to secure, pinning the cording to the front round
If you’re using the Lacis, head right (clockwise) Run your cording around the ornament pinning every inch or two. Moving and re-applying Wonderclips to keep the front and back of your ornament together. You can twist your cording in hand as you go for a tighter effect.
Once you reach the top, create a loop going in front of where you started and inserted the tail. Loop up to your desired length (I prefer a 3 inch drop)
Cut off excess, leaving 3/4 of an inch or more
Bury the tail next to the first tail using a chopstick
Adjust and pin the loop in place
Thread your needle with approximately 1.5 feet of invisible thread (doubled) or finishing line and knot
Starting one inch away from the loop, start sewing by burying the knot behind your cording, piercing out through the back fabric. Thread your needle through the cording colors (careful to not pierce through the colors) and stitch down through the needlepoint very close to the edge. Come out on the fabric side very close to the edge
After your first few stitches (which should be shorter), angle your needle in the direction of travel. Use a color change as frequency/width guide
When you get to the loop, add a few reinforcing straight stitches to secure When you reach your start, stitch over your start by a few stitches, sharing the stitch holes if possible
To finish, double/triple knot as closely to the ornament as you can. Run your tail through the fabric to bury the tail before snipping.
Hooray!
You’ve finished an irregular shaped ornament! I hope you found this tutorial helpful and you continue to strengthen your self-finishing skills!
If you’re interested in practicing, I host monthly Finish-Alongs where we go through the finishing process for various formats.