Acrylic Part 4: Finish a Flat for an Acrylic Tray
step-by-step instructions, video, and calculator inside
In the last article in the acrylic series, we’ll wrap with a tutorial of an insert for an acrylic tray. The biggest two differences between finishing an ornament and finishing an acrylic tray are: the cording join (no loop to hide those tails) and measuring properly for a snug fit.
I have seen stitchers simply pop an ornament in a tray so that’s absolutely an option too! What I’ll cover here is some finer points for seamless cording and accurate measurements.
In today’s post, you’ll find:
A detailed step-by-step process video
Written instructions
And a calculator for cutting your matboard to the right size without too much math
Degree of Difficulty
2/5 🪡🪡
Added one point for math and another for cording joining.
Prerequisites
You don’t really need any prerequisites for this project, but it may be helpful to see other examples of key concepts that this project uses.
Materials
Tray (View some pre-made suggestions in my previous post here. I’m using a magnetic tray).
Needlepoint, stitched and blocked (mine is by CBK artist Liora Manne and is originally 10x10 on 13 Mesh, source here)
the hero of this project, digital calipers
Scrap paper and pencil
Cording: I used DMC Pearle, created with the Lacis cording maker
Fabric lined with a fusible mid-weight fusible interfacing. Some fabric recommendations here. In the demo, I used an Ultrasuede that I did not line with interfacing.
Pins
Scissors
Iron or steamer
For lacing: DMC pearle cotton for lacing and tapestry needle
For attaching the cording: Invisible Thread or Fishing Line and a sharp, thin needle
You can find a full list of recommended finishing materials here.
Detailed Process Video
Written Step-By-Step Instructions
Carefully measure the interior dimensions of your acrylic product. I used my digital calipers for this
Note that the stated dimensions are not always reality! For example, in the video you’ll notice the size of the tray that houses the needlepoint is actually larger than the stated dimensions and are different than the tray surface. It is marketed as 8.5x11 but its really 8 9/16 by 11 1/16. If you want a snug fit, take this into account.
Once you have the dimensions, write them down.
Measure the size of the stitched area of your canvas. Write them down.
Cut the stitched canvas out, leaving at least 1/2” (13 mm) for 18 mesh and 1 inch wide (25 mm) for 13 mesh. Notch out tabs periodically to remove bulk.
Refer to the calculator to arrive at your matboard size. All things being equal, I usually cut matboard 1/2” or 13 mm smaller than the canvas on the width and length. But you may want to adjust smaller depending on your acrylic size. Cut the front matboard using an Xacto knife or scissors.
Process note: Because this is for a tray and I’m obsessed with getting a good fit, I opted to wait until I had the front assembled to work on the back. If I had to make any size adjustments, this allowed me to do so on only the front panel and not both.
Using your matboard as a template, cut your batting.
Process note: I used two layers in this project, as discussed in the video, these were previously adhered to the matboard so these were cut at the same time as the matboard. If you’re using a product that has a depth of 1/2” or less such as these photo boxes, use only one piece of batting.
With the canvas face down on the working surface, top it with batting and then matboard.
Wrap the tabs around the edge of the matboard and check for fit. The stitching should wrap around the edges and “kiss” the table if laid face up.
Secure with Wonderclips.
Using a tapestry needle threaded with DMC Pearle cotton or similar (suitable for your mesh size) begin to lace the back by starting with a knot that cannot be pulled through in one of the tabs you made in step 4.
Lace across the back, running the lacing across the back to get a taught front. You don’t have to lace super hard to achieve a taught canvas.\
Dry fit your front panel into the acrylic and take interior measurements to determine/confirm cording thickness. I again used these digital calipers.
Make your cording the proper thickness using the Lacis or other method (detailed video here).
Once cording is completed, dry fit the cording in place with the front panel. I just tucked the cording in next to the canvas. (not shown)
If no changes required, proceed to lacing the fabric on the back panel, using the same method as above Secure with Wonderclips and lace around the back.
Pin the cording in place around the perimeter of the front panel and clip the two panels together.
To join the ends, layer the cording together matching the cord colors and twist tension, then insert the tails into the object (more details here). Pin in place.
Secure the cording and panels together using invisible thread. Follow the direction of the cording twist and bury the thread in between the colors changes.
Knot off and run the tail through the cording to bury the end knot. Snip ends and any other threads.
Slide into the the finished tray and enjoy your beautiful creation!
Acrylic Tray Measurement Calculator
The trick to a really good fit is measuring your matboard correctly for your finished tray. The matboard size is your interior measurement minus cording thickness. If that’s not an option based on your canvas size (e.g. if blank canvas would show), you can add some thickness to the cording. This is far better than having canvas visible.
Like in any algebra problem, you can move these variables around. In the case of my video tutorial, the canvas size as stitched was a hair smaller than I would have liked, so I beefed up my cording size slightly.
Consider documenting the sizing of your favorites in the cording chart here. I personally prefer:
3 color twist cord with 9 strands DMC floss or Pearle for 18 mesh
3 color twist cord with 12 strands of DMC floss or Pearle for 13 mesh
I hope this tutorial is helpful and confidence-boosting. I keep coming back to the benefits of lacing instead of gluing Every step can be easily undone.
If you’ve finished an acrylic insert before, I’d love to hear if you have other tips or tricks for our community.
Thank you for being here. It means the whole world. Thank you for your ideas, your conversation, and your questions.
